1 1/4 lbs (567 g) bone-in, skinless chicken, cleaned and excess skin removed

1/2 cup (115 g) plain whole milk yogurt

1 tbsp neutral oil

2 tbsp biryani masala (recipe in post) or store-bought biryani masala

1 tsp coriander powder

1/2 tsp cumin powder

1/2–1 tsp red chili powder (adjust to taste)

1/4 tsp turmeric powder

1/4 tsp nutmeg powder

Pinch of cane sugar (omit if using store-bought biryani masala)

2 tsp kosher salt (adjust for store-bought masala)

For whole spices:

3 medium dried bay leaves (tez patta)

5–6 whole cloves (loung)

4–5 whole black cardamoms (badi elaichi)

6 star anise (badiyaan)

6 green cardamom pods (elaichi)

2 3-inch cinnamon sticks (daarchini)

3/4 tsp cumin seeds (zeera)

1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns (kaali mirch)

For parboiled rice:

1 3/4 cups (~325–350 g) aged, long grain basmati rice

1 1/2 tbsp kosher salt

1 tbsp oil

1 tsp lemon juice or vinegar

For the biryani:

1/4 cup neutral oil, plus more as needed

2 tbsp ghee (or butter)

2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced

6–8 garlic cloves, crushed

1-inch ginger, crushed

1 small tomato, finely chopped

1–2 small green chili peppers, chopped

5 dried plums (alu bukhara)

1/3–1/2 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp garam masala (optional if using biryani masala)

1/2 tsp red chili flakes (optional)

1 tsp kewra essence (optional)

1 tsp lemon juice

For layering and topping:

1/2 tsp chaat masala or garam masala

1 tbsp oil

1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped

1–2 tbsp mint leaves, chopped (or more cilantro)

1/8 tsp yellow/orange food coloring mixed with 1 tbsp milk or water

5–7 slices lemon, thinly sliced

For serving: Vegetable Raita or Cilantro/Mint Raita (Yogurt Chutney)